Getting the visa
Getting the Cameroonian visa was hard! In fact, it was impossible! The eVisa system literally (and I use the word literally, literally) would not accept my payment. It took someone already in the country to pay via mobile money. That’s a plus for these mobile money systems, in my opinion. We need to continue using our own inventions like that. However, had I not known anyone in the country, I would not have been able to gain entry.
Anyway, weeks after I started the visa process, I got a multiple-entry, 3-month visa to the land of opportunity.
First Impressions
Immediately upon landing at Douala International Airport, I was enveloped by a humid heat that never left me.
We spent a few hours in the city that day and then proceeded by road to Kribi, a coastal city in the South of Cameroon.
I was thoroughly impressed by the road to Kribi. The four-hour drive had a nice, narrow tarred road with beautiful views of the forest on each side. I was exhausted, but I was forced to stay awake to admire the flora as we drove.
Arriving in Kribi, we set up at our first hotel for the night, a low-key and unassuming hotel called Edivince. On this day, I had my first taste of what is now my favorite Cameroonian meal: Ndole. It tastes like if Egussi and Ifisashi had a baby that grew up in West Africa. I know only a specific set of people will get that reference, and perhaps it speaks to how special the meal really is.
We moved to our “permanent” hotel, a seaside hotel at the ocean called “Le Lagon.” The rooms were spacious and overlooked the Atlantic with direct access to the water (from the restaurant area).
The hospitality industry (from my experience) is not great in Douala and Kribi. There is a certain excellence in service that is lacking, which we are so accustomed to in Southern Africa and Kenya, too, especially for the seemingly high-end hotels we were staying at. For example, at Hotel #1, the door would not unlock from the outside unless a male worker intervened. At Hotel #2, my laptop was smashed while I was away, and all I got was a “Well, this never happens.” The hot water situation wasn’t great either, just like at hotel #3, where the sink blocked itself, and I had to spend a night with a sink full of sudsy water because “maintenance can only come tomorrow.” 🤦🏾♀️
While at Le Lagon, a colleague and I immediately assumed the tradition of walking along the beach on the dark, high-tide waters of the Atlantic Ocean, and it became an act of self-care I looked forward to after the long days of work. I felt safe walking alone on the beach the few times I did and noticed that the men generally did not catcall and were polite if they did say “Bonjour.” Well done on that, Cameroon!
Gorilla Trekking and Tracking
This trip was special. It came just 5 days after we buried my oldest sister, so there was a lot of healing riding on it. While grief is a weird process, my experiences in Cameroon were so new that they felt like the perfect way to begin this new era of my life.
In Cameroon, we visited the Equatorial Rain Forest. I kept saying it out loud over and over because it felt like such a faraway place when we learned about it in grade 8 and 9 geography 20 years ago. We accessed the Equatorial Rain Forest from the town of Campo Mann, and it took a boat on the River Ntemi that allowed us to be just meters away from the country of Equatorial Guinea. I was surprised at how seeing mangroves up close brought me to tears! I am always so reverent of nature, but I thought that the tears would come when I stepped into the forest or something more “significant” like that.
Upon docking at the mouth of the Equatorial Rain Forest, we were quickly oriented to the etiquette of the forest, and so began our 4-hour adventure of gorilla tracking and gorilla trekking. The difference is that when we track gorillas, we quite literally track (follow) them through the forest, listening for sounds, looking out for footsteps, dung, and signs of eating. It becomes “trekking” when you sit and wait while others track them, and then you are only called to come and see them.
We tracked the gorillas for 3 hours before we got our first sighting. It was intense! It was a difficult hike through a dense, humid, thick forest. The Equatorial Rain Forest houses gorillas, chimpanzees, leopards, forest elephants, parrots, vipers, pythons, and many, many other animals. We walked through swamps and thorny bushes, climbed rock formations, and many times had to wait patiently as our guides cut through the thicket with their tiny machetes and no other protective gear. Our lead guide, Dr Michael, gave us a brief rundown of what to do when (not if) a gorilla charges at you. See below for this life-saving advice.
This advice came in handy when, as predicted, a gorilla charged at the group. You see, gorillas are creatures of habit and have very specific routines. They wake up very early to begin their day and have their first main meal at 10:00 AM. Between 10:30 and 11:30 AM, they take a nap. Guess who went to trek them while they were napping: yup! We did! Of course, they charged at us! I, too, would be very irritated if someone came to my house and tried to interact with me as I tried to rest.
We ended our stay in Kribi in style, with a visit to the majestic Chute de la Lobe (Lobe River Falls), which is significant because there is a point where the Lobe River and the Atlantic Ocean meet. We took a boat to see the falls and rode past this very clear confluence point.
We rode the (leaking) boat right up to the falls and felt the mist on us. It was reminiscent of the mighty Mosi-oa-Tunya Falls and was so scary with the mini white water rapid at the bottom of the falls.
At night, we went to Debarcadere, a market along a pier where fresh fish is sold and roasted on site. They brought us a lovely selection of Tilapia, Bream, Crab, and Sole, and we each chose a whole fish that was served with plantain. Poisson braisé, they call it.
Culinary Adventures
In Douala, a major highlight was eating fish on Rue de la Joie, quite literally, “the street of joy. " In the evenings, vendors line up with different types of raw fish for patrons to pick. They grill the fish on an open flame to be served with plantain, chips, or mondo, which is manioc (cassava) rolled into thin little ball strips.
Reflections and Observations
A horror of mine was getting “stuck” in traffic made up ONLY of motorbikes (boda boda/ okada) with barely any space to walk. That market experience was jarring and overstimulating. I realized just how quiet Zambia is in general. Yes, ba Lusaka, your ka city is quiet too. 🤣🙈
Overall, my experience in Cameroon was a once-in-a-lifetime one, and I’m happy to have been there.
Practical Tips for Future Travelers
1. Visa Process:
- If you're planning a trip to Cameroon, be prepared for potential challenges with the eVisa system. Having a local contact who can assist with payments via mobile money can be incredibly helpful.
2. Cultural Etiquette:
- Learn a few basic French phrases. A simple "Bonjour" goes a long way in making a positive impression.
3. Accommodation:
- Manage your expectations regarding hotel standards, even at high-end establishments. Be prepared for some service inconsistencies.
4. Local Cuisine:
- Don't miss trying Ndole and Poisson braisé. These dishes offer a unique taste of Cameroonian cuisine.
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